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Blunt Cutting and Your Scissors
The Purpose
The blunt cutting technique is useful for any style that requires the hair to be cut to one length. The result of the technique is an accurate 'blunt' line, hence the name (not cutting with blunt scissors!). This technique was especially popular in England in the 70's and 80's. Blunt cutting is excellent for the hairdresser who needs to quickly and easily remove the bulk before working on the finished style.
Recommended
The Blunt cutting technique is suitable for all hair types, fine to medium texture. If the client has thick hair and lots of it, normal section cutting is preferable as this technique may be difficult to perform with accuracy.
The Technique
In this technique, the hair is not horizontally sectioned but combed and parted in large vertical sections to be cut horizontally! HUH?! you say. It is easier to understand by looking at the photos. For many of you younger cutters, you may never have seen this style of cutting before. Because you have a far greater volume of hair between your fingers than on a normal section, it is important that you realise that the cutting action is also different. Instead of cutting your section in two or three smooth strokes of the scissors, you are cutting with the tip of the scissors a half a centimetre at a time and using between 10 and 15 small cuts. The cut is almost a snipping action and the scissors are ever so slightly pulled back as each cut is closed. The first photo shows the cut in action - notice that the section is held nice and tight to reduce the chance of any hair slipping and the scissors are cutting as close as possible to the fingers. It is easier to cut this technique under the fingers as you can get closer to the section and you can pull down, not recommended for cutting on top of the fingers. The second photo shows the amount of hair cut with each snip. If you try to cut too much with each snip, the natural tendency is for the hair to push forward and you won't get a good line. This technique is pretty easy to learn but, as always, it is a pretty good idea to practise on a dolls head first.
The Scissor
The most popular scissors for blunt cutting in the past was a pair with a little serrated edge - 4.5 inch scissors. The serrated edge had the advantage of holding the hair nicely in place for this technique and is especially suited for all snipping and pointing techniques. But, as most of you know, serrated edge scissors are limited as they do not perform the open blade techniques (slide cutting, slicing etc.). You can Blunt cut with any scissors but, if you intend to be performing the Blunt cutting technique very often, I would recommend that you use the smaller sizes (5.5 inch maximum) and with medium to wide tips. To blunt cut well, scissors need strong tips. If the tips are too fine, you will find the scissors need to be forced to cut (pressure cut) and they will lose their edges very quickly. If the scissors are too long, you will find that the tips may buckle or fold because of the extra length of the handle and blade and the scissors will be awkward to use. Believe me, long blades are not the best for tip cutting - they are better for other uses which I will discuss in another issue. Many of you are beginning to realise that it is virtually impossible to perform all the popular cutting techniques well with only one pair of scissors. Better tools don't make a better hairdresser, but good tools make the job easier and faster (and more enjoyable!). So, before you buy your next pair of scissors, talk to your local scissor man about the techniques that are your favourites and what scissors are best suited to do those techniques.
Happy Cutting!
Adrian Schlemmer
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